Building the Fairey Swordfish Mk.I Tamiya 1/48 scale. By Jose Angel García Martin Everybody knows the story of the battleship Bismarck sunken by one of those. Tamiya’s 1/48 scale Swordfish is available online at Squadron I decided to build my kit as a version that served with No. 1 Air Gunnery. Here is our book review of How To Build Tamiya’s Fairey Swordfish title.

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We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. After painting and assembling the fuselage, progress was quick and easy. No changes were made to the cockpit, although Tom Cleaver identifies minor changes there as well. The yellow fuselage markings were painted and then masked prior to adding the camouflage. You can find a list of those cookies here: By Ross Whitaker April 1, Spray booth design and fan selection. The number of parts and the apparent complexity is staggering, but once I got going, it was a relatively quick and easy build.

Once again, great work and look forward to seeing this progress. Starting in step six, pointers indicate where you’ll need to open holes for the photoetched rigging and other parts.

Tamiya 1/48 scale Fairey Swordfish Mk.I

The linen was then treated to splotches of red-colored chalk pastel to simulate the red dope applied to linen surfaces. Also, additional aftermarket details are not really needed once you get the PE. Working with Alclad2 “natural swordfieh finishes”. View our Privacy Policy. By Modeler Tamjya Legal Notice. We’re celebrating 35 years!

The ventral rear-fuselage panel in step 8 is a tricky fit to the base of the rudder, so take your time. This wonderful Formula One was one of the few cars in modern F1 history which chassis and engine were the same brand. Towards the end when you add the PE dials are you using CA glue?


The strange looking photoetched parts 9 and 10 are the torpedo ranging and angle of attack indicators. At this step you also need to decide which aircraft to model of the three provided on the decal sheet. My inspiration for this project was fairsy often used port side profile of the aircraft and because it was Canadian.

Thanks to Tamiya we can have a model of it, both were the reasons why I decided to build it trying to get the most detailed model I couldtaking advantage of the fact that as it was a mass production model, it would be possible for me to get a lot of references.

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If you want the wings folded, I suggest not gluing parts B3, 4, 5, 6 in place steps 13 and 14 because you will need to test fit the extensions into the wing slots after the wing halves are glued together. In any case, I see no problem with alignment in the finished model, although the stress on the wing and CA glue remains I wonder if it will ever give way? Really interesting to see a video build and you have done a really nice job on the cockpit.

The letter “J” was swordfishh from spares.

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I have been warned on how tricky the rigging is with PE parts, will proceed with caution. Tamiya’s Swordfish kit is an eye- popper.

Tamiya 1/48 scale Fairey Swordfish Mk.I | Finescale Modeler Magazine

I also modified the oil cooler slightly by adding some details not present on the Mk I. True, it is unusually cross your fingers expensive, and I received mine as a birthday present because I was unwilling to fork out the bucks myself. Very interesting video of airbrushing your Swordfish model – adds a new dimension to a build CJP.


Not surprisingly it is more time consuming to build than a typical monoplane tail dragger, but this is due in large part to the amount of detail in the kit. Anyway, there are no kits for this kind of modification except for one of the Acu-stion for the Tamiya XV kitso it’s not possible to get one.

This is the key question for this model, and the answer is NO. You want a smooth and reasonably snug fit for good support of the folded wings.

And here swotdfish comment: I wasn’t planning at all to do the black primer, but Tamuya don’t think it was right to have the under wings all white with no different shades. Just to be sure I’ll keep my glasses on when I get close. I used to use CA glue for PE dials but now I use “Gator’s Grip” acrylic hobby glue, it has a strong bold but gives you a lot of time to position.

It was at a modelers meeting when he received a homage and the joke consisted of letting him know the arduous remodeling and restoration xwordfish he would have with this rusted Mustang.

The cowl ring was ttamiya using an 4: Very nice work so far! To add insult to injury, the PE bracing on the inner strut popped out with a definite “twang” and sat there dangling from the upper wing. Putty in your hands.